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dr350 Diary

24/09/03 12,669.6 miles, Buy the poor thing.

It's a 1991 Suzuki DR350. I think the original owner had set it up as a desert racer. So it has the following extra bits, larger petrol tank, bash plate, oil cooler, chain slack taker upper.

What it needs:- hand guards, a working left rear indicator (has a mini style indicator, the previous owner reckons it's a wiring problem), clutch is stiff so I'll oil the cable. A canvas cover. The rear tyre is too worn for off-road, but should manage about 500 miles on tarmac.

Sitting in the garage just after I bought it.

25/09/03, Fix the lights

The rear light doesn't work. The bulb's brake light filament is still intact, but the other one is blown. Fortunately I've a few spares, so I've bunged one in.

The left rear indicator had been replaced by a mini-indicator that doesn't work. A quick inspection reveals the bulb is blown. As it is a mini-indicator it takes different bulbs to all the other indicators (on this bike and my zx6r). Fortunately I have an old front indicator from my zx6r, that I manage to fit. Solder the wiring loom onto the bullet connectors on the new indicator. It actually works!

26/09/03, Registration

Spend the morning in Glendale DMV, come out with new licence tags (having paid the road tax) and transfer the ownership in to my name. My wallet is $106 dollars lighter, but I'm always happy to walk out of the DMV with valid paperwork.

When the engine is warm, the revs hang when I close the throttle. Must check the choke and the throttle cable (single cable and what looks like a quarter action throttle).

08/10/03, 12,746 miles, Clutch cable.

The clutch feels stiff and slightly notchy. In the hope of fixing it I unhooked the handlebar end of the cable. One funnel made of insulation tape later and I was pouring engine oil down the cable. After more than five refills the oil still wasn't coming out of the bottom. The bottom end of the cable sits in a slightly 'u' shaped metal tube, so it could hold a reasonable amount of oil before coming out of the bottom end. I disconnect the bottom end of the cable, at which point I notice the metal sheath on the bottom on the cable is damaged where it is clamped to the down tube. Which would explain where the oil is leaking out. So I feed some oil in from the bottom end as well.

Initially I thought the bolt holding the lever at the bottom of the cable onto the clutch spline had stripped the thread. Fortunately I had another bolt handy, and the thread felt fine. I turns out the 'original' bolt was the wrong size. Bung in an M6 bolt, which fits nicely.

24/10/03, 12,766 miles, Clutch cable and rear indicator.

The parts I'd ordered have arrived, the clutch cable (part no. 58200-14D21) had been redesigned so it has a thread on the bottom end, instead of an adjuster on the top end. I'm used to this style of cable from my GPz500. Have a load of fun fitting it, with lots of oil everywhere. The new cable looks slightly shorter so I didn't feed it through the cable support on the handlebar clamp. It appears to work but as the engine is refusing to start it's hard to tell.

Try to fit the new rear indicator (part no. 35603-14D10). Sadly it didn't come with a nut to hold it on. I've nothing suitable, M10's are too small, M12's too large. I guess it must be an M11.

Get a toolkit (part no. 09800-21034) as well. Much to my annoyance the plug spanner doesn't fit the spark plug?!

01/12/03, Drain the petrol tank

I haven't been able to start the bike in a while, cleaning the spark plug didn't help (18 mm socket required). Neither did taking the carburettor out, removing the float bowl and given it a blast with carb. cleaner. Just in case the petrol has gone off, I've drained the tank into my zx6r. The zx6r seems quite happy to burn it. Oh well.

03/12/03, Parts have arrived

The parts I ordered have arrived, contain carb. parts that should stop it leaking fuel. While this is unlikely to stop the bike from starting, it annoys me that it does it. I've got a float bowl gasket (part no. 13258-44B00), a needle assembly (part no. 13370-02D00), drain plug (part no. 13247-02340) and float bowl screw (part no. 02112-0511127). The last two won't help stopping the leak but they had chewed up heads.

Also in the order was a nut to hold the rear indicator, 10x1.25 nut (part no. 08316-10103), that'll be an M10 with a different pitch on the thread then. Since I prefer to work on carbs outside (the ventilation is better), I'll leave that until the weekend and just fit the indicator this evening.

07/12/03, It lives

Fit the new carburretor parts. This stops the carb leaking, when I tighten the float bowl drain screw enough. Put some petrol out of the zx6r in the tank and I still can't kick start the poor thing. I do find out that the entrance into the garage under out apartment building is steep enough to bump start the bike on. So I manage to get it running, and eventually stop the carb. drain leaking.

Run the bike enough to check the oil level, use my fork oil syringe to take the excess out of the oil tank. It's a dry sump with the oil reservoir being in the spine of the frame, I'd checked the level without running the bike and topped it up too much (the oil hides in the sump after a while).

08/12/03, Electrical Nonsense

Clean and di-electric grease almost all of the electrical connectors. This drops the resistance from the -ve terminal of the battery to the earth connection of the ignition coil from 0.01 ohms to 0.00 ohms. So it's unlikely to make any difference. Blow the main (and only fuse) in the process. Replace it (15amp standard sized blade) with the spare in the holder, and pop a new spare into the holder.

I still can't kick start the bike, but I can still bump start it. Take for a spin around the block. Notice I've killed the left rear indicator, the one I've just replaced. Turns out I've dislodged the earth lead to the bulb. Try and kick start it again, and fail.

03/01/04, First ride of the New Year

Steve goes over my kick starting technique. It turns out kicking it over with a bit verve is required to spin as it will turn the engine over a couple of times. This does the trick. Cranking the engine over (de-compression lever pulled in) with the ignition off and the throttle open clears excess petrol from the engine. Many thanks to Steve for sorting me out.

Ride up the Angeles Crest Highway, filling up at Jay's Shell on the way. Unfortunately the wind and the steering head bearings get to me and I turn around early (before getting to the Angeles Forest turn off).

Still getting the occasional petrol leak from the carb. Which is really annoying. I think it must be the float bowl drain plug.

15/01/04, New Head Bearings

Get Crago Racing to replace the head bearings. Aparently they were completely dry (as well as being notched). While they are there, they check the forks over. The seals look ok, but the oil is horrible so it gets changed.

17/01/04, Cycle Gear's 10% off sale

Head down the 101 to Cycle Gear's sale. End up getting a pair of off road boots (Alpinestar Tech-6's), a crash helmet (O'Neal Apex) and a pair of googles. All for just under 300 notes.

21/01/04, 12,991 Miles, Fit Hanguards Part 1

I've bought some Moose aluminium hand guards and the plastic bits that go over to top. The end of the throttle body is closed so cut the closed bit off and cut the grip back so it won't foul the guard. Fitting the guards is a bit of puzzle, with everything that's clamped to the bars needs to loosened off to move it all around. Naturally the handlebar brace clamps are right where the hand guard clamps want to go on. I'll need a longer (by about 20mm) brace if I want to put it back on.

Yay! Handguards are go. The brake lever's banjo bolt get's in the way, so rotate the lever a little lower to keep it clear of the guard. Which will probably mean the guard won't protect the lever. I need to drill holes to screw the plastic guards on, but they should be ok just slipped on unless I crash. I ought to trim the left had grip down, as it gets in the way of the guard on that side. The left hand guard looks like it slightly too high.

Change the following fasteners, as the cross head's were lightly mashed. All the new ones have allen key heads:-
Clutch lever clamp (top)M525mm
Clutch lever clamp (bottom)M516mm
Decompression Lever clampM616mm
Throttle Clamp (top)M516mm
Throttle Clamp (bottom)M516mm

Add the appropriate allen keys (including the 5mm one from the handguard kit) to the bikes toolkit.

24/01/04, Fit Hanguards Part 2

Drill holes in the hand guards and screw the plastic guards on. Trim the end of the left grip off, so that the hand guard sits on the metal end of the bars.

31/01/04, Santa Monica Mountains


04/02/04, 13,247.5 Miles, Handguards Part 3

More fiddling with the handguards. Use a couple of M8 washers to shim the right hand guard to give it a some clearance from the brake banjo bolt. Measure the distance between the handlebar brace clamps, it looks like a minimum of 10 9/16 inches or 268 mm, should do the trick. I wonder if I can get one fabricated at work.

14/02/04, Santa Monica Mountains

Woo hoo. The Rock Store is very quiet (no more than 20 bikes at one time) must be Valentine's Day.

18/02/04, 13,587 Miles, Oil Change

I made the mistake of reading the Clymer manuals recommendation on oil change intervals, 600 miles for oil and filter. After I stopped swearing I thought it was probably about time I did one. So I pick up some Motul 5100, fully synthetic in 10w-40 and a suzuki oil filter (part no. 16510-38240).

Remove the bash plate (12mm bolts, shorter ones in the frame rails), notice the rhs frame rail mount has a small crack. Undo the crank case drain bolt (i.e. the dry sump), 17mm and catch some oil. Undo the top of the oil reservoir, but it still doesn't look like the 1.7 litres has come out. Undoing frame oil drain plug (12mm) finds where it's all hiding.

Undo the oil filter cover (8mm bolts) and remove the filter. I haven't got replacement o-rings (part nos. 09280-16005 and 09280-72001), so clean the existing onesup and lob the new filter in. Remove the pipe from the oil strainer (6mm on the hose clamp), and undo the oil strainer (19 mm, needs a socket a least 20 mm deep). Clean the mesh with carb cleaner, and give a once over with a toothbrush.

Reassemble, and torque everything down (oil strainer 25 Nm, sump drain 20 Nm, frame drain 18 Nm). Pour the new oil in, approximately 1.7 litres gets it to L on the dip stick. Surprisingly nothing appears to leak (I didn't change the washers on the drain plugs, part no. 09168-10002? or any o-rings), still time I guess.

22/02/04, 13,589 miles, Carb removal

I'm not entirely happy with the way the carb leaks fuel occasionally. So it's off with carb, yet again.

The float bowl has an overflow pipe that vents into the float bowl drain (down stream of the float bowl drain screw). So it looks like there's too much petrol getting into the float bowl, usually when returning to tickover after a period of higher speed running when the engine hasn't warmed out fully. I've changed the float bowl needle valve and seat. The floats aren't punctured, maybe there's a leak into the float bowl. Fit a clear tube onto float bowl drain so that the petrol will end up under the engine. The level when is leaks gets scarily high, then the engine stalled.

Removal the filter from the crankcase breather, and connect it to air box crank case breather line. I assume the filter had been fitted when the emission's control stuff was removed, but venting the crankcase into the air box should work better.

03/03/04, Carb Fixed?

The float looked too high, 12.5 mm from the bottom of the float to the carb body. So I'd tweaked it to about 14mm. This should lower the level of petrol in the float bowl. I'd done this on the 29th March but hadn't got around to riding it until today. Go for a spin on the local roads, no fuel overflow or stalling. I can even turn the tickover down to 1250 rpm and it still runs ok. Top work.

08/03/04, 13,619 miles, Adjust Gear Shift

I occasionally miss up shifts, mainly because the lever sits too high (or I'm lazy). The lever is mounted directly on a spline from the gearbox. Undo the lever and move it down on spline, where it fowls sump guard. Another good idea bites the dust.

24/04/04, 13,703 miles, Handlebar Brace

Make a new handlebar brace, as the hand guard clamps intefered with the handlebar brace clamps. Cut a piece of 1/2 inch solid aluminium rod to an appropriate length and file the ends flat and drill a couple of holes. Took me the best part of two months. Probably isn't perfect, but it does the most important thing. Which is give me somewhere to put my handlebar brace pad. Unfortunately this is another excuse not to ride it in the dirt gone.

22/05/04, First Dirt Ride

San Gabriel OHV area is disappointing. The "Rincon Shortcut" fire roads 2n24 and 2n23 from Highway 39 (just North of the OHV area) to the Angeles Crest (just east of the Big Tujunga junction) is great.

23/05/04, 13,804 miles, Major Clean

Wash most of the dirt from yesterday off. Clean the chain and chain run area with degreaser. Oil chain (Silkolene Chain and Sprocket Oil (Race)).

24/05/04, mileage the same, Adjust the rear brake

Take the rear brake lever apart grease the lever pivot. Adjust the lever lower, but have to raise it a bit as the brake light switch won't go off. It's better, hopefully I'll be able to rest my motocross boot on it in a normal riding position without putting the brake on. The rear brake action feels a bit weak, but the test ride is around the garage in sandals.

16/06/04, 13,902.4 miles, Carb fiddling

Take the air filter out and give it a clean in degreaser. Notice there's a two inch split in it. Probably not from me cleaning it, as I was quite gentle. Order a new one, and repair the old one with some foam snipped from the sponge in my washing kit. Oil filter and replace. It's possible I was over enthusiatic with the oil as the it's leaking out of the air box drain.

Take the carburetor out. Adjust the float bowl height to 15mm from the carb. body to the bottom of the float. This leaves the float bowl dry. Which would explain why it is so hard to start, air filter or not.

21/06/04, mileage the same, Carb fiddling

Setting the height is difficult as I do it with the carb turned upside down. While this leaves the float in the closed position, the pivot has a nasty habit of popping out, leaving the floats sitting too low. Try setting the carb correctly to 15mm. Engine won't start.

22/06/04, mileage the same, Carb fiddling

Try 14.5mm, engine won't start. Clean the spark plug just in case I've oiled it. Bike bump starts with a small amount of choke. Restarts on the kickstart, unfortunately the carb is now overflowing more than it used to (at 14 mm). From my plastic tube on the float bowl vent it looks like the float bowl valve isn't closing.

25/06/04, 13,903.2 miles Carb Fiddling

Set the float height to 15mm, bike starts easily, but the carb is overflowing. The float bowl overflow is 10.2 mm above the top edge of the float bowl. With a float height of 16mm, fuel is getting into the float bowl but the bike won't start.

Back at 15mm float height. Eventually get it to start, but after a bit it starts overflowing. I wonder if the float bowl valve is sticking open.

01/07/04. 13,904.0 miles, Carb Fiddling

Set the float height to 13.8mm, bike starts easily (four or five kicks after putting the carb back in). I was supposed to tweak the pilot screw, but I was worried that it would sit there leaking petrol in the underground garage while I did it.

04/07/04, Parts

Fit a new guide for the rear brake pipe (part no 61196-3D00) as the old one has broken. New Suzuki air filter (part no 13780-14D02). Oil the air filter but put in where I'll catch the oil draining out of the plastic bag (the old one I oiled is still leaking oil out of the air box drain).

07/07/04, Mileage the same, New air filter

Fit the new air filter, amazingly enough it has less oil in it than the old one. There's pipe attached to nipple on the bottom of the carb, inlet side. The pipe has been plugged with a bolt, so I cut it down to just long to cap the nipple. This would have been the purge hose from the canister, part of the (removed by a previous owner) evapourative emissions control.

Check the pilot screw setting, it's just over one turn out. Which according to my Clymer manual is stock for W Germany (everywhere else gets two turns out.

23/07/04, 14,086.2, New Float Assembly

Fit a new float assembly into the carburretor. I've bought the later part, part no. 13240-14D20 as opposed to part no. 13240-14D10. The newer part doesn't have the cut outs to slide the pivot into it's hole. I'm hoping this will hold the pivot more securely, and cure the overflow problem. Set the float height to 13.8mm. It starts fairly easily, but I don't let it run for long enough to see if the carb will overflow.

25/07/04, First off road crash

Having got relatively used to riding up the Rincon Shortcut, I thought about exploring the other fire roads in the San Gabriel Mountains. It looked like I could do a loop from the Angeles Crest, Big Tujunga, 4n18 (Lynx Gulch Road) and the 3n17 back to the Angeles Crest. So I take the Rincon Shortcut to get to the start of Big Tujunga. Turn off the road and onto the fire road. The scenery here is much dryer than on the Rincon Shortcut. The fire road has channels eroded across it by rain.

All goes well until a steep descent. The surface is tarmac with a lot of loose debris. I brake to hard on the rear and it comes round on me. I step off the low side of the bike (the uphill side) as it goes down. I was worried that when I picked it up the tyres would slide down the hill. But they didn't and I walked it down the hill to flat turn below.

The nasty descent continues, with the following section has a lot of step eroded in to it. It's a nightmare to bodge it down, I consider trying to walk the bike. But the trail is too rough to dismount without dropping the bike. With a lot cursing, sliding, front braking and both feet down I make it without crashing.

07/08/04, Newhall to Lake Hughes to Castaic

Ably led by Eric, find a just put out wildfire on the ridge route. Dale is ecstatic about his new (to him) xr400.

10/08/04, 14,372.6 miles, Change the Oil

New oil filter (Suzuki), I still need a new washers for the crankcase sump plug and the frame oil drain plug. But they still seem to hold oil in. The sump looks like its been repaired with epxoy resin, which is slightly disturbing. Torque the crankcase drain plug to 18 nm, frame plug to 15 nm and the oil strainer to 25 nm. Use the last of the Motul 5100 technosynthese 10w40 oil, that I bought for the last oil change.

16/08/04, 14,454 miles, New front brake pads

The front brake is squeaking. It looks like one of the pads is down to metal. Pull the pads out of the front caliper, 12mm hex holds it to the forks, the pad retaining pins are 5mm hex. There's plenty of meat left on the pads (3mm or so), but no groove. I guess the pads aren't Suzuki's. Give the caliper a blast with brake cleaner, grease the slides and lob some new pads in. Reassemble (retaining pins 15 nm, caliper bolts 20 nm) and even remember to pump the pads out afterwards. One of the screws in the master cylinder reservoir gets slightly more mashed up (cross head m4 counter sunk 10mm long).

21/08/04, 14,454.9 miles, New rear tyre and grease linkage

Garage day a Frank F.'s. Fit a new rear tyre. It was a right pain to get the old one off and get the new one on. On the plus side I didn't pinch the inner tube in the process. Later, John A. recommends leaving the tyre in the sun to soften up, as it makes it a lot easier. I also learn that my fold up dirt bike stand is a two man job to put the bike on the stand. Which makes it significantly less useful.

While the bike is on the stand, take the rocker arm out of the rear suspension, clean it a bung some grease on the needle bearings. The good news is they are already nicely greased.

04/09/04, 14,585 miles, Adjust the Valves

The valves are supposed to be adjusted every 600 miles. But I've not had the confidence to tackle it before. It needs the following tools:-

  • ? (< 4mm) square, valve adjuster
  • 8 mm spanner, valve adjuster locknut
  • 10 mm socket, valve adjuster covers
  • 12 mm socket, for removing the fuel tank, the seat and sump guard
  • 19 mm socket, to turn the engine over via the flywheel nut
  • 8 mm allen key, cover over the timing slot
  • 10 mm allen key, cover over the flywheel nut

Take the seat and fuel tank off, undo the timing cover. Take the sump guard off to stop the oil getting on it. Use a yoghurt pot to catch the oil. The cover over the flywheel nut is very stiff, use my longest 1/2 drive to undo it. Over half a litre of oil comes out, use another yoghurt pot and a Scottoiler bottle to catch it all. Clean the spark plug, the gap at 0.8 mm is in spec. (0.8 to 0.9 mm). The light in the garage isn't good enough, so push it out into the street. I can fit a larger feeler under the decompression shaft, so it isn't pushing down on the exhaust valve rocker. Adjust the valves as follows:-
Valves Should be was set to
Intake 0.05 to 0.10 mm left <0.04 mm 0.10 mm
right <0.04 mm 0.08 mm
Exhaust 0.08 to 0.13 mm left 0.14 mm 0.12 mm
right 0.14 mm 0.12 mm

Considering how consistently out the valves are I wonder if I've done it correctly, or if it was done incorrectly the last time. Do the valve adjuster lock nut up as tight as my 8mm spanner will allow. On the plus side it runs when I put it back together, with possibly less noise from the valves.

06/09/04, Santa Clara Divide road.

After Eric and I had ridden the 3n17 to Chilao Flats, Eric reckons he should be able to ride all the way from his house to the Newcombs Ranch on fire roads. So we meet up and head up Little Tujunga before taking the Santa Clara Divide road east. The road itself is disused tarmac, which gradually decays into dirt.
Eric's wife Jo has a brand new DRZ400S and Dale is out with us, showing me how it's done. Here's the two of them checking out the pictures Dale has been taking. He's even put them up on the web. Dale and Jo checking out Dale's pictures

19/09/04, Second off road crash

This time I was riding south on the 4n18. The nasty descent is marked as "most difficult", but it's easier to ride up it than it is to go down. So in order to keep things consistent I crash on the easy bit probably within half a mile of the junction with Big Tujunga. I brake approaching a corner and the front wheel washes out. Looks like I still haven't mastered releasing the front brake when the wheel slides.

14/10/04, 15,160 miles, New Chain Guard.

I leant my bike to Steve, as he was thinking of buying a dual sport bike. On his way home the chain guard made a break for freedom (on the 101 freeway). I feel guilty, that I didn't tell him the bolts weren't done up that tight. But I didn't sting him for a new one. The new one looks nice, but it shows up the rest of the bike.

29-30/10/04, California City

Eric and Joanne drag me out to California City. We spend a fun weekend thrashing around in the desert.

03/11/04, 15,385.6 miles, Oil Change

Drain the oil, it doesn't look too bad i.e. it's not completely black. Change the oil filter. Clean the oil strainer, which has collected a couple of small flakes (paint?). Pop a new air filter in, and clean the old one. The seal on the air box side cover needs replacing. The exhaust mid pipe join is blowing, I must remember to check the torque on the bolts.

04/11/04, Check valve clearances

Valves Should be was set to
Intake 0.05 to 0.10 mm left 0.15 mm 0.08 mm
right 0.15 mm 0.10 mm
Exhaust 0.08 to 0.13 mm left 0.08 mm  
right 0.10 mm  

Considering how the clearances have changed, I'm still not convinced I'm doing it right. Still it hasn't stopped it running yet. Clean the sparkplug, it looks surprisingly good. Fill the bike up with oil, just under two litres takes it half way up the dipstick. Undo the exhaust can clamp, grease the bolt and torque it up to 18 nm. Clean the soot off the pipe so I can tell if it still leaks.

26-27/11/04 Los Angeles to Barstow to Los Vegas Dual Sport Ride

Organised by AMA District 37 Dual Sport, the longest dual sport ride, starts the day after thanksgiving. You may wonder what some plonker with six months off road riding experience was doing on it. You'll find out as soon as I get the email write up converted to html.

01/01/05, 15907.5 miles, Start a service

Eventually get it to start for the first time since the end of November. Finding a new apartment and spending a couple of weeks in England over Christmas has eaten into my riding time. Drain the oil, change the oil filter and torque all the oil drain bits up.

02/01/05, Continue Service

Check valve clearances:-
Valves Should be was set to
Intake 0.05 to 0.10 mm left more than 0.10 mm, less than 0.12 mm 0.08 mm
right 0.15 mm 0.08 mm
Exhaust 0.08 to 0.13 mm left 0.10 mm  
right 0.10 mm  
Still not convinced I'm doing it right, but at least the changes are getting smaller. Still haven't bought a 3mm square socket to turn the valve adjusters.

Clean the spark plug and pop a clean air filter in. Refill with oil, start it up to get the level right.

Try to remove the rear shock (the bump stop is almost completely destroyed). This needs the swinging arm removing. Take the rear wheel out. I need to remove the rear brake. The top mounting bolt has had the inside of it's allen bolt rounded out. Hammering in a T-27 torque bit doesn't help. Neither does cutting a slot and using the impact screwdriver on it. My 2mm left handed drill bit is blunt but gets through most of the bolt. A 2mm right handed drill bit get through some more. A left handed 4mm bit widens it out. The right handed 4mm almost gets to the other side. A 3.5mm right handed bit can't find the other side, but the 3mm manages it. Widen it out with a 4mm bit. Hammer in the T-27 again, and the bolt comes out. The hole isn't entirely straight and has shaved the back end of the thread, oh well.

Take the rear wheel out. The front rocker bolt needs to come out, my 17mm six point 1/2 inch drive won't fit on. The 12 point one will, but rounds the nut off slighty (turns out it was 18mm). A 17mm six point socket that is shorter than 37 mm would make this a lot easier. As would a 22mm? six point socket for the swinging arm pivot nut.

03/01/05, Rear shock out and in the shop

I bought some 3/8 inch drive sockets (12, 14, 17 and 19 mm). These are 25mm tall (compared to the 37 mm of my 1/2 inch drive sockets) and fit onto the rocker's front pivot bolt. I did wonder if the 3/8 rachet would be give me enough torque to undo it, but it worked well. With the rocker removed the rear shock can be removed without taking the swinging arm out.

Drop the rear shock off at Exceptional Suspension Products for a service and new bump stop. The remains of the old bump stop disintegrated as he was taking the spring off the damper.

11/01/05, 15,911 miles, Rear Shock back in.

The new rear bump stop looks huge, but then that's what the pictures of the original one look like (it's a Honda bump stop in there now). Refitting is fun, I had to undo the regulator/rectifier to torque the top shock mounting bolt up. The dog bone to rocker bolt has a torque spec. to high for my 3/8 inch drive wrench. The 1/2 inch drive won't fit on the nut, so it gets torqued from the bolt end. It all appears to work, but still squeaks slightly. There's more rebond damping and less pre-load. I'll have to set the shock up I guess. I even manage to start it and go for a spin.

13/01/05, New right rear indicator

My last parts order has arrived, jolly quick too. So it's a new right rear indicator for starters.

I've bought some 1/4x20 1/2 inch long imperial screws to replace the one I lost from tank support bar. Sadly this means I can now tell that the new tank support bar is too long. Phone Clarke up, and they send me a new one. The right size this time, and they don't even charge me for postage or want the old one back.

14/02/05, Rear wheel fun.

A while back I picked up a pair of wheels on eBay. What I wanted was a pair of wheels with road legal knobblies and the other with dual sport tyres. Which would allow me to save the knobblies for off road, and still be able to have a laugh on roads. It will also allow me to run different sprockets between the two.

The 'new' pair came from the dirt variant, there's no difference in the front, but the rear has the sprocket bolted on to the hub, compared to the current one which has a cush drive. Which means different spacers, which the wheel didn't come with. On the plus side the wheel came with a 49 tooth sprocket (six teeth more than the road wheel). The rear has a small dent in the rim, the rear brake disk is too worn and none of the bearings turn. I couldn't shift the brake disk bolts, but Brandon did a top job of undoing both the disk and the sprocket, and knocked the old bearings out. None of the brake disk bolts survived the experience. The rim clamp was also toast.

I put some new bearings in. The outer one on the sprocket side needed shimming with a can of fizzy pop. I also replaced all the sprocket nuts, and a couple of sprocket bolts. Scott's performance swapped the knobblie onto the dirt wheel, putting the old gp110 back on the road wheel. I mounted the dirt wheel, and much to my relief it all fits. Apart from the chain which is too short. I've a new chain with 110 links (compared to the road's 108), but no master link. So the road wheel goes back on.

17/03/05, 16,131.3 miles, New Sump Guard

Replace the sump guard with a new, one via eBay. There's a small oil leak from the sump plug.

24/04/05, 16,145.6 miles, Dirt style rear wheel

Fit the dirt bike rear wheel. It's a wheel from a dr350 (rather than a dr350 s) so doesn't have a cush drive. It's wearing my Dunlop 606, and a 49 tooth sprocket. Unfortunately the longer chain (110 links, compared to the old 108 link chain) I bought is just long enough to fit, but not long enough to have enough slack. The larger rear sprocket and the back wheel as far forward as possible means the chain clamp under the swinging arm has to be removed. I should've changed the rear brake pads while the wheel was out.

29/04/05, 16,146.1 miles, Longer chain

Fit a longer chain (112 links) that is long enough to have a sensible amount of slack. This does mean that the new chain is on mark 3 on the adjuster (out of -1 to 4), so it could run out of adjustment when the chain wears.

While the bike is on the stand, I drop the rear wheel out and put some new pads in the rear brake caliper. The wheel is a real pain to put back in, it also has a new disk, and the spacer on the sprocket side keeps rotating. When it's all back together the rear brake is dragging, but it gets a lot better after a spin around the block. The rear brake feels really weak, so I'm hoping it will get better as the pads bed in.

07/08/05, 16,974.4 miles, Replace missing screw.

The shorter gearing has been working wonders, making ascents and descents off road a lot more controllable. Most of the time I can use the throttle to do the work. As far as the top speed is concerned, I don't get much over sixty mph. The front weaves a bit at seventy, which discourages any further investigation.

One of the bolts that hold the fuel tanks cross brace has gone missing, but a new one in. It looks like the metal sheild over the frame is missing a bolt (or two) as well, which would explain the 'ching' rattle I hear of the more severe bumps. I'll look into it the next time I have the tank off. Which should be soon considering it about time for service.

12/08/05, 16974.4 miles, Service and fettling

Change the oil and oil filter, clean the oil strainer in the frame. Put a clean air filter in, and clean the inside of the air box. Clean and gap the spark plug (it's at 0.9mm, which is fine). Compression release clearance is 0.2mm. Check the valve clearances:-

All are within spec., so no need to adjust them.

There's a couple of missing screws in the sheild between the frame and the fuel tank. Sadly the stainless steel M5 12 mm long cross heads that I bought for the zx6r float bowls are too long. So it ends up with a couple of stainless steel allen headed M5's that are 10 mm long (the originals are about 7mm long). Hopefully this will cure the crash sound that I hear on larger bumps off road.

The fuel pipe going into the carb is 8mm o/d. Replace the exist fuel pipe and filter combination with a straight run of fuel hose 5/16 th's of inch (7.9mm) i/d. Cut a length the same as the old pipe (120mm) which looks slightly too short. I've noticed a fuel starvation when wide open with less that half a tank of fuel. The larger size pipe should cure it, but also means I can't see when the fuel has stopped flowing when priming the carb. I'd like to get a suitable clear high flow filter with a right angle pipes, but I might wait to see if the fuel starvation is fixed first.

06/09/05, 17313.4 miles, New Bash Plate

Joanne had won $500 dollars of Moose Gear. She didn't use it all so I sneaked a Moose Bash Plate in. Thanks Joanne. It fits ok, with a bit of rearranging of the hose clamps on the extra oil lines for oil cooler. I'm temped to pop some bicycle inner tube in the clamps to stop them marking the frame. The front mounts use the orginal bolts. Some washers might be a good idea, 8-9mm i/d with 18+ mm o/d.

I could do with some loctite on the tank cross brace. There's some oil leaking out of where the decompression lever enters the cam cover. I've order a new oil seal for it. Hopefully that is the problem.

18/09/05, 17313.4 miles, Replace oil seal

It looks like there's been some oil leaking out of where the decompression lever enters the cam cover. So I pulled the decompression shaft out and replaced the oil seal. Fortunately I read the manual to find the shaft was held in by a bolt, before reaching for the big hammer. The decompression lever fees slightly stiffer, so hopefully the new oil seal will do the job. Trim the end of the insulation sleeve on the spark plug lead, it was splitting at the coil end. Put some thread lock on the screws that hold the tanks cross brace.

09/10/05, 17427.8 miles, Front wheel bearings

Putting a larger fuel pipe on appears to have made the top end fuel problems worse, with poor running almost guaranteed after a few minutes at 70 mph. Could be low fuel levels, but I'm not sure if switching to reserve helped or backing off on the throttle did the trick. Filled up a couple of times, putting in two gallons each time. Fuel tank cross brace has come loose on the right hand side, but the bolt hasn't disappeared. Refit and tighten it up with some more thread lock. On the plus side the new seal on the decompression lever appears to working.

Change the wheel bearings in my spare front wheel (currently wearing an IRC GP 110). The speedo drive bearing was ok, but the other side was on the way out. One half sealed bearing and one unsealed bearing. I ended up with the sealed bearing on the speedo drive side, and the unsealed bearing on the other. Hopefully this is right as the unsealed side as a seal over the top, unlike the speedo side.

03/11/05, 17509.2 miles, Sump plug washer

The sump plug has a slight oil leak. Replace the sump plug washer (part no. 09168-12002) and torque it up to 18nm. It takes slightly over one and half litres of oil (Motul Technosynthese 10w40). Use my fork oil syringe to get the level down after I put too much in. It doesn't leak at first, but then it wasn't that quick with the old washer.

Stick a old wrist watch onto the left front indicator, it might come in handy to see the time without having to stop.

10/11/05, 17530 miles, Fuel tap

Swap the fuel tap for one I picked up on eBay. The 'new' one is from a 1990 bike and has no vacuum pickup. Cap the vacuum take off from the carb. It fits ok, and I can start the bike, but it's late and the tank is virtually empty, so I don't bother testing the top end. It looks like the new tap might leak slightly from the handle. A quick look at the 'old' tap, it looks fine.

16/11/05, 17540 miles, Change the fork oil

The fork caps are ridiculously tight, my twenty four millimetre twelve point socket is just rounding off the fork cap. I end up buying an impact socket set to get a six point socket. Eventually get the fork caps off. The right fork is missing the circlip that holds the washer onto preload adjuster. Straining the old oil turns up the circlip. Drain the forks and refill with 10w oil, set the air gap to 150 mm (176 mm road, 145 mm off road). Wind the damping up to the max (was about one turn before max), do the same on the rear shock (was one and half turns before max). Set the fork preload to the max (the original setting).

New pair of tyres, Dunlop 606's, just like the old pair.

Test the fuel tap with a high speed run, seems to work better. Put a spring clip on the join, which will hopefully stop it leaking from the carb junction. Cut a piece of aluminium off an old skid plate and glue (JB weld) it onto the left hand steering stop. Hopefully it will keep the top yoke clamp from hitting the right hand side of the tank.

Los Angeles to Las Vegas Dual Sport Ride

Full report.

02/01/06, 18138 miles, Service

Drain the oil, clean the oil strainer (25 nm), frame drain plug 15 nm, sump plug 18 nm. The sump plug is a bit stiff to screw in, almost like it's got loctite in the threads. Something to worry about. Remove the oil cooler's plumbing. It's all 3/8 fuel hose, according to the writing on it. The pipes are 105mm, 150mm and 255 mm long, so a couple of feet should be enough to replace it. I'd like to get hose clamps using bolts rather than worm gears, as they have a lower profile. Which should stop the clamps crushing the other oil lines.

Close the ends of the fuel tank brace down, so that it won't slip over the bolts holding it. Obviously the clamping force isn't enough. The fuel tank support rubbers are loose, looks like the inner holes have opened up. I'll buy some new ones, but in the mean time some bicycle inner tube helps fill the holes. Change the air filter and clean the inside of the airbox.

Check valve clearances:-


All are in spec. so no changes required.

04/01/06, 18138 miles, replumb the oil cooler

Put the oil lines to the cooler back in. Use the same routing, but with bolt style clamps for all but the two larger clamps. Like an idiot I haven't measured the larger pipes, so I don't know what size I need. Refill it with oil, it takes 2 litres of Motul 3000 10w40. I must have made a mistake to pick up some non synthetic oil, but at least it's cheap. The sump plug is a bit stiff and needs 21nm to stop it leaking.

12/01/06, 18144 miles, Check my spare forks fit

I'd won a pair of forks on eBay. They're from a 1995 bike, looks like the dirt variant. I'm planning on getting Racetech to fit cartridge fork internals but I want to check they fit my bike first. It looks like they do, but the original ones are a real pain to refit. The side stand breaks completely when I take my bike of the work stand. I'd already ordered a new one, but it won't get it until tomorrow at the earliest. Replace the bulb in the rear light (the taillight filament has blown).

13/01/06, 18144 miles, Parts arrive

My order from Ron Ayers arrives. So the bike gets a new side stand (part no. 42310-14D12-019), black rather than blue and a slightly different shape, but it works. The new outer spring for the side stand (part no. 09443-19010) is the same as the old one, but not as bent as is the front sprcoket cover (part no. 11360-14D0). There's a new rubber boot for the clutch cable adjuster (part no 58273-3100), a better fit than the original and not as perished. The side panels get new screws (part no. 09139-06050) and washers (part no. 09169-06028). A new left mirror (part no. 5660-13A10-000) completes the new bits.

I file down the ends of the aluminium hand guards, which had a reasonably sharp ninety degree finish. As been nailed in the thigh by them a couple of times, rounding the end off should have damage to me and my trousers.

13/02/06, 18293.3 miles. Add bolt to the rear fender.

The original rear mudguard and registration number plate holder has been removed, and the plate screwed into the rear body work. The rear body work rattles against the subframe, when bouncing around off road. There's nut in the subframe at the end of the bodywork, where the rear mudguard used to screw in. Drill a whole in the rear body work, use an stainless M6, with a fuel hose spacer to screw the bodywork to the subframe.

14/03/06, 18514.4 miles, Front wheel to handlebar alignment

Try to get the front wheel straight in the forks, with respect to the handle bars. Slacken off the axle clamp, axel, top and bottom yokes and kick it in the right direction helps. But it's still not right. Looks like I'll need to replace the bent handlebars then.

03/04/06, 18534.2 miles, New Handle bars

Remove the old handle bars. The horn switch has had a dodgy action so I take it apart and clean the dirt off of the contacts. Fit the new bars, Renthal's finest Jimmy Button 5.5 inch Motocross Enduro Pro Bend, in the original size (7/8 th's of an inch). I'd ridden up to Scotts Performance in Montrose and it was the nearest they had to what was on there already. Fit new grips, a pair of Bevo mx2's half waffle, labeled 'Scott'. Fit the hand guards, do a better job than before, with only three washers for spacers on the right hand guard. Tighten the controls down. Torque the bar clamps down to 18 nm, top right hand fork clamp to 20 nm (undone to move the indicator out of the way). Fit the Renthal bar pad on the brace, it came free with the bars.

The kill switch clamp pivot holes are cracked. The rubber hood for the front brakes master cylinder is damaged.

03/05/06, Dirt Carburettor

I've won a dirt carb on ebay. It arrived today. It needs a float bowl gasket, float bowl drain screw and a piston for the accelerator pump. New screws for the float bowl wouldn't be a bad idea either (m4 14mm thread). It's a mikuni, I think a larger bore the CV carb that is in their at the moment. No idea if it will fit in the rubber bits that connect it to the air box and engine.

10/05/06, New Exhaust

The Big Gun Race series exhaust (10-S31S) I won on eBay, has arrived. Fit the spark arrestor in the end cap (m5 allen bolts). If I'm lucky it will fit on the end of the header pipe and won't be too loud. The other end cap bolts are allen head m6 with what looks like a coarse thread.

14/05/06, 18898 miles, Tighten the rear sprocket

The rear sprocket has had dirt trails running radially away from the mounting bolts. When I washed the bike yesterday, I noticed all the mounting bolts are loose. Tighten them up (6mm hex and 12mm spanner) as tight the tools will allow.

22/05/06, Dirt Carb fettling

Clean up the dirt carb with some carb cleaner. New float bowl gasket (part no. 13251-27A00), float bowl drain plug (part no. 13247-02340), idle adjuster support (part no. 13692-19c00) and accelerator pump piston (part no. 13493-27a00). The rod that actuates the accelerator pump now returns on the spring, but it only move 4mm or so. Seems a little short considering the amount it could move. Replace all the float bowl screws with stainless steel m4 cross heads, 16mm long but 14mm would be better. Add split washers to the float bowl screws.

Notice the rear rack is missing a hex head bolt with a flange, screws in from the inside of the mudguard. I'd guess it's an M8. The rear light lens is rattling, maybe tighten it up will stop it.

24/05/06, 19007 miles, Replace missing bolt

It could really do with an M8 flanged hex head with 30mm of thread. I stuff an M8 button headed allen keyed 20 mm long, but it is stainless.

I can't tighten the rear light enough to stop it rattling. It probably needs a gasket between the rear plate and the body (bolted onto the rear mudguard. In the mean time I stick some bicycle inner tube onto the wider surface. Which does the trick, but the edge isn't too tidy.

03/06/06, 19008 miles, Service

Replace the rear light bulb with an LED one. The tail light looks the same, but I don't think the brake light is as bright.

Change the oil (put the last of the Motul 3000, 10w40 in), clean the oil strainer, new oil filter. Torque the oil strainer up to 25 nm, frame oil drain plug to 15 nm and the crank case oil drain plug to 23 nm. The crank case plug is still stiff, I wonder it's got a non metric bolt in there. One of the front bolts holding the heat sheild over the in frame oil reservoir is missing. Put an M5 10mm long stainless steel bolt in (button head, allen socket), like the one on the other side. Put both of the front ones in with thread lock.

Clean spark plug, colour looks good. Gap is 0.9mm, at the top end of the spec. Check the valve clearances:-

Set the right intake clearance to more than 0.06mm but less than 0.08mm.

Replace the rubber mounts (part no. 09329-10016) on the heat shield for the fuel tank. Make a new fuel line from some 5⁄16 inch fuel hose, four fuel injection clamps and a right angle fuel filter. I'd damaged the old one getting the tank off. On the nuts on the compression release cable had come undone, tighen it right up. Spark plug lead support wasn't clamped under the intake valve cover bolt. It is now. Set the clock to the daylight savings time.

07/06/06 19148 miles, Clutch cable creaking

The clutch cable has been creaking and the action is stiffer on a slow movement than on a fast one. Lubricate the cable with some engine oil (via tape funnel). Which doesn't help much. Time to order a new clutch cable.

11/06/06 Ride for Kids

Full report.

14/06/06 19381.3 miles, Trial fit the dirt carb

Much to my surprise the inlet and outlet on the dirt carb is smaller than cv carb. I did wonder if the difference in the engine side was smaller enough for the clamp to deal with but it isn't. Take the float bowl off of the cv carb while it's out, the main jet is a 135.

22/06/06 19381.3 miles, Banjo bolt boot

Replace the rubber boot over the banjo bolt on the front brake master cylinder (part no. 59711-04700. Undo right top yoke clamp, so the indicator gets out of the way. Undo the hand guard. Undo the banjo bolt, stuff a rag in the master cylinder hole. Cut the old boot off, only the collar remained. Put the new boot on, lubricate the rubber with some brake fluid. I work most of the air out of the master cylinder. Put it all back together (20 nm torque on the banjo bolt and top yoke bolts).

23/06/06 New left rear indicator

The rubber in the stalk was torn and has gradually split all the way through. Bung a new one on. I ought to get some aftermarket ones that are more flexible, they might last better.

09/07/06 19561 miles, Trial fit the dirt carb

The single throttle cable from the CV carb won't work with the dirt carb. The lengths are wrong. The CV carb clamp bolts have chewed up heads, they're M4 cross heads 25mm and 20mm long. Make a breather for the float bowl vents from some tubing from the emission stuff on from the CV carb. Loose a spring clip on the air trumpet to the gear box breather hose. One of the reg/rect backet bolts has a damaged thread, stuff a stainless steel allen bolt in. Rear rack bolt missing, stuff a stainless steel allen bolt in.

14/07/06 19564 miles, Big Gun Exhaust

Fit the Big Gun Exhaust I won on eBay. The quiet core I ordered for it hasn't turned up. This isn't the full system, so it uses the original header. Head up to the Bike Night at Hooters, organised by Moomba Cyclesports. It's rather loud, so I give it some gratuitous throttle.

17/07/06 19604 miles, Original Exhaust

Take it to work, and upto ESP to look into fitting a Scotts steering damper. I think it's easier to start, either because it's jetted for a freer flowing pipe (larger pilot jet?) or less back pressure means I turn it over more times. I like it but it's lost a bolt from the nozzle, and I'll wait until the quiet core turns up. The middle bolt on the original exhaust has a hex head rather than an allen key.

22/07/06 19604 miles, Fit flatside carb

The dual cable throttle setup has arrived so I can get on with fitting the flatside carb. The grip on the new twist grip tube is a full waffle, which I don't really like. Sadly it's glued to the tube. The new throttle tube has an adapter so it might work with either the one or two cables. I might've got away with using a space throttle clamp from my zx6r spares, but I think the adapter needs a wider one. The new throttle tube has a closed end, which won't work with my hand guards. Two minutes with a hacksaw solves the problem. Put a couple of cable clamps on the right hand side of the fuel tank's heat shield, to support the throttle cables.

Replace the allen bolt I'd stuck in the reg/rect bracket with the correct item. This one is flanged, unlike the original. But a new clamp on the gearbox breather hose, to replace the one I lost. Stuff the clutch cable in cable clamp, which might keep it away from the mudguard. Replace the allen bolt in the rear frame with the correct item, flanged headed bolt, which has thread lock on it.

28/07/06, Flatside carb tweaking

The flatside carb is leaking fuel, out of the float bowl drain. Which reminds me of the original carb when I first got the bike. I pull the float bowl off, o ring that seals the needle valve seat to the carb body doesn't look to good. I break it taking it off. My o ring kit has a one that fits but it's outside diameter is too big. Use my dremel to turn the o ring down. It's still leaking, so I drop the float height from under 13.5mm to 14.0 mm. Which stops the leaks.

Take the bike for a test ride, it won't rev over 4500 rpm. I'm guessing that with the stock air filter and exhaust the stock main jet, a 132.5, will work better than the 140 that is in there. Naturally, I don't have one.

06/08/06, 135 main jet

Temple City Powersports had a 135 main jet. Stuff it in the flatside carb and take it for a spin around the block. It will rev higher, but there is still a bit of stumble around 5 to 6 thousand rpm.

07/08/06, 19605 miles, CV carb

Put the CV carb and single throttle cable back in. I have to ride upto the ESP to get the Scotts steering damper fitted so I'm looking for sensible throttle response.

08/08/06, 19605 miles, Road rear wheel

Put the road rear wheel back on, as I won't be seeing any dirt until the steering damper is fitted. The knobblie tyre on the dirt wheel is looking quite worn. Shorten the 110 link chain I had bought for the dirt rear wheel down to 108 links and fit that as well. The chain on the dirt wheel was too long at 112 links, and there was too much slack with 110 links. The IRC GP110 rear tyre looks a lot narrower than the knobblie, but it does have a round profile.

11/08/06 132.5 main jet

Put a 132.5 main jet in the flat side carb. Sadly I can't test it as the CV carb is in the bike. Replace the o-ring I bodged together for the float bowl valve seat with the correct item. The head on the crosshead screw that holds the float bowl valve seat in is starting to get chewed up.

17/08/06, 19632.8 miles, Scotts Damper

A couple of days ago, ESP fitted the Scotts Steering damper I won on eBay. They've done a nice job, trimming the cross bar pad and everything. It looks like getting the dipstick for the oil out is going to be tough.

Put the battery on charge as the headlight was looking feeble when the engine isn't running. The charger goes to green almost immediately, suggesting the battery is fine (or on the way out). Replace a button head cap screw with the original bolt and washer in one of the supports for the battery box. Make a new float bowl vent line from some clear plastic tubing (polyurethane 5mm id). It's a better job than rubber tubing. Just have to find somewhere to stash the top end.

18/08/06, Flatside carb

Fit the flatside carb (I'm getting quite good at swapping the carb and throttle out). A quick test around the block has it up to eight thousand rpm. Which is a far as prepared to take it around the block. The headlight it looking brighter when the engine is off, so putting the battery on charge did make a difference.

29/08/06, 19633 miles, Replace headlight

Put the battery back in the bike. The low beam on the headlight has blown. As luck would have it I have the old H4 bulb out of my GPz500 (replaced with a Phillips bilux bulb). It slots right in. While the headlight is apart, rewrap the wiring loom that goes from behind the head light under the tank. Start it up, turn the idle up, turning the fuel screw in about half a turn raises the idle from 1800 to 2000 rpm. It could probably do with more tweaking but I'm too lazy to do it now. Turn the idle down to @1250 rpm.

12/09/06, Refit knobblie rear wheel

The first time I fitted the dirt wheel I had to hammer the axle in. This time, the lighting (thanks Steve) in the garage of my new house, lets me see that the brake disc is fouling on the brake caliper hanger. It looks like I'd need remove almost the whole back stop for the brake pads to get it to fit properly. I file about a milimetre off of it. Steve suggests putting some washers under the brake disc to get the spacing correct.

After a few tries I end up using three stainless steel split washers under each bolt (the only M8 washers I have in any quantity). This moves the disc about 7mm away from the hub. I was going to use the original bolts, until one strips the thread in the hub. So some stainless steel M8's (button headed allen bolts) with 25mm of thread (originals have 16mm) go in. Thread locked and torqued to 18nm. There's still a slight drag (periodic so the disc isn't perfectly flat) against the hanger, but I've had brakes that dragged worse. It's also a lot easier to put the back wheel in now I don't have to hammer the axle in (and out). The nut on the rear axle gets wound up to 85 nm.

28/09/06, Big Gun Exhaust Quiet Core

Take the Big Gun Exhaust apart remove the straight through core and fit the quiet core. The front end needs a slight taper to slot into the pipe. Cut a slot and spend sometime bending it until it's a reasonable fit. The end cap sits slightly proud now, but it will make it easier to remove.

02/10/06, 19671 miles, More rear brake disc fiddling

Replace the split washers spacing out the rear wheel with solid ones. Four solid ones, leave the outside edge of the disc 10.2 mm away from the hub (the disc is 4.0mm thick). Three split washers gave 10.0 mm spacing. I also change the 20mm long bolts for 25 mm ones. This leaves about 3mm of thread showing out on the inside of the hub. Which should help with the thread stripping. The net upshot is there's now no drag, but still the occasional squeak.

17/10/06, 19753 miles, more Carb fiddling

A couple of days ago I turned the fuel screw on the flat side carb in a bit. At last I get out for a test ride. The bike is harder to start when cold, but easier when warm. I have to turn the idle up to 1500 rpm to stop it stalling. This leaves idling at 2000 rpm when it gets very hot. Take the carb out, the fuel screw was at 1 1/8 turns out. Set it to 1 5/8 turns out as listed in the Clymer manual. The fuel hose is leaking at top end of fuel filter. Replace it with a single length of 5/8 inch fuel hose (low pressure), without the fuel filter. Adjust the oil cooler to keep it clear of the front mudguard (and the fuel tank rattling).

10/11/06, 19901.2 miles, Service

Remove the wheels and get some new tyres fitted, Dunlop 606's. Front axle gets 50 nm of torque the rear one gets 85 nm. Drain the oil, put a new oil filter in. Clean the spark plug, the gap is 0.9mm (still in spec.). Clean the oil strainer (25 nm torque). Frame oil drain plug 15 nm, crank case drain plug 20 nm. Set the decompression lever clearance to 0.20 mm (it was fouling the exhaust valve). Check the valve clearances:-


Set the right exhaust clearance to 0.10 mm, it was probably set wrong before because of the decompression lever. Fill the engine up with Motul 5100 (synthetic) 10w40.

20/11/06, 19951 miles, misc fettling

Clean the chain. Replace the right rear indicator (damaged during transit in the back of a pickup) with one bodged together from the remains of some old ones. Change the air filter.

24-25/11/06, Los Angeles to Barstow to Las Vegas

12/12/06, 20338.8 miles, Repairs

Replace the clutch perch, the jaws are slightly narrower than the old one so the lever rattles slightly less. Fit a new clamp on the rear of the perch. Refit the left mirror, now it's come some threads to screw into. Replace the missing tool box cover. Put a tube support on the right hand handlebar clamp. The mount for the Scotts damper needs a bit of filing so the tube support will fit. Feed the carb vent tube and fuel tank vent tube through the support. Clean the spark plug, colour looks good, didn't check the gap. Oil the spare air filter. Clean the chain.

03/01/07, 20353 miles, Throttle action

Look into speeding up the throttle action, in the hopes of holding my wrist at a more comfortable angle when standing up. The twin cable twist grip with a throttle rotor has a diameter of 38.5mm at the cable run. The single cable one piece throttle tube from the CV carb has a diameter of 28.5mm. So swapping them over will slow down the action of the throttle. Another good idea bites the dust.

15/07/07, 20622.2 miles, Check Carb

Remove the fuel tank to get at the carburretor. The rear right bolt is missing from the heat sheild under the fuel tank. Put a new bolt in, I suspect the thread lock isn't working too well on the stainless steel bolts. Replace the compression release cable. The threaded part of the sleeve on the bottom of the old cable is bent. Remove the carburretor, set up a T float bowl vent tube. The pilot fuel jet is 45, the stock one is 37.5 so this is two sizes up. Which would explain the tune I was having with the fuel screw. Set fuel screw to one turn out. The choke lever shaft is bent, so it can only be pulled all the way out in one position.

17/07/07, Front mudguard fiddling.

Put an M8 stainless washer under the front mudguard forward mounting bolts. This lowers the front edge of the mudguard by about 7mm (on full left lock). Hopefully I'll get less back scatter from the headlight.

31/07/07, 20626.6 miles, New Carburretor bits.

Fit a 37.5 pilot jet to the carburettor, set the fuel screw to 1 5/8 turns out (ish). Fit a new choke lever (is it missing an o-ring?). Turn the idle down to 1500 rpm, but it's still not as stable as I'd like. It tends to hang at 1800 rpm on overrun. Maybe its me, but the exhaust is sounds quieter.

3/08/07, O-ring for choke

Take the o-ring off of the old choke lever and fit it to the new one. This seals the plastic threaded bit against the carburretor body. The engine starts easily, but it is a warm day, turn the idle down even further. The idle might be more stable, but it's hard to tell without taking the bike out for a ride.

30/09/07 20648 miles. Charge battery

Charge the battery. It could really do with replacing. Replace the right rear indicator.

02/03/08 20667.1 miles. Cosmetic stuff

Fit a pair of Ceet Racing Apex Blue fuel tank stickers (sourced from eBay). Replace the white plastic hand guards with a new pair. Moose Racing has redesigned the plastic and the new style should be screwed in, sadly my old style hand guards don't have the holes and I'm too lazy to create them. Still it looks nice. Sitting in the garage just after I bought it.

09/08/08 20682.8 miles. It lives

Start her up, after charging the battery up. It takes a couple of kicks before I change my right sandle for a boot. With a full on kick and the choke out, it fire right up. Sweet. The horn isn't working. Strip down the left switch cluster, and clean the horn switch up. Which doesn't help the horn. Glue a thin strip of bicycle inner tube onto where the switch cluster locating peg was. This will allow me to tighten the screws enough to stop the switches from twisting in use. Put some Back to Black on the left switch cluster and rear light housing. Clean the chain.

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